Wednesday, February 18, 2009

[Organic_Gardening] Digest Number 2211

Messages In This Digest (16 Messages)

Messages

1a.

Re: Introducing Myself...

Posted by: "Dave Leland" dleland@chartermi.net   dleland_71

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:50 pm (PST)

Ooops, My Bad. :) I'm in SE Michigan (zone 5) just north of Ann Arbor. I
live on a little 6 acre chunk of heaven. If you have Google Earth (or a GPS)
enter these coordnates:

42°23'16.02"N 83°46'05.64"W

This will put you in my front yard. The Google Earth picture is about
3-years-old, but you can seen my raised beds and the garden(s).

So, how does one get started getting certified organic? I've tried to
contact the "Southeast Chapter" of Organic Growers of Michigan (OGM), but
their site hasn't been updated in a while and nobody returns my calls.

BTW, I love mountains (none around here, just lakes and rivers).

Respectfully,

Dave Leland
DLELAND FARMS

Visit our family Website at: http://www.dleland.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Amy Shea
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 7:41 PM
To: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Organic_Gardening] Introducing Myself...

Welcome, Dave -- where are you?
Amy, mountains of SW VA

.......... ............... ..........
...............

Those who dwell
among the beauties & mysteries of the Earth
are never alone or weary of life. (Rachel Carson)

We ought to stay out of the nuclei. (Wes Jackson)
http://ashea23.massagetherapy.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leland

Hello. I just joined your group seeking knowledge, information and
friendship. I am not new to gardening (40+ years), but this year I am
interested in getting my 1.5ish acre vegetable garden certified
organic. I have been using this garden since 1978 and other than the
occasional commercial fertilizer have abstained from using `nasty'
chemicals. Mostly cow & chicken manure, tree leaves, grass clippings &
so forth. This year (for the first time) I am going to grow only
heirloom and/or open pollinated varieties.

PS: I usually lurk in the shadows upon joining a new group for a while,
but am excited about your group.

_.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Messages in this topic (8)
1b.

Re: Introducing Myself...

Posted by: "Dave Leland" dleland@chartermi.net   dleland_71

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:50 pm (PST)

Ken,

Good, that's the information I need. Let's see... any runoff from septic,
nearby roads, streams and rivers: nope, nope, nope and uh nope! Great all I
have to do now have the soil tested, right?

In the 70% of the 'ice berg' that's below the water you wouldn't happen to
know where I should turn or are you just making conversation?

Respectfully,

Dave Leland
DLELAND FARMS

Visit our family Website at: http://www.dleland.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 2:30 PM
To: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Organic_Gardening] Re: Introducing Myself...

100% certified organic is very strict and must not have any chemcial
fertilizers or other non organic items add for well over 20 years or more.
Every year, the soil must be thoroughly tested as well, not just for the
necessary items, but also for any possible toxins or any runoff from septic,
nearby roads, streams and rivers. Thats just the tip of the iceburg!

--- In Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Leland" <dleland@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello. I just joined your group seeking knowledge, information and
> friendship. I am not new to gardening (40+ years), but this year I am
> interested in getting my 1.5ish acre vegetable garden certified
> organic. I have been using this garden since 1978 and other than the
> occasional commercial fertilizer have abstained from using `nasty'
> chemicals. Mostly cow & chicken manure, tree leaves, grass clippings &
> so forth. This year (for the first time) I am going to grow only
> heirloom and/or open pollinated varieties.
>
> PS: I usually lurk in the shadows upon joining a new group for a
> while, but am excited about your group.

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Messages in this topic (8)
1c.

Re: Introducing Myself...

Posted by: "Pat" patar2002@yahoo.com   patar2002

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:50 pm (PST)

You can get more info from the USDA's website or your state Dept Of
Agriculture or from a certifying agency. No prohibited items can be
in the soil for 3 years before the date of harvest for Certified 100%
Organic. They also have certification for transitional farms/gardens.
Also, if you sell less than $5,000 worth of product a year you can
market it as organic but cannot say it is Certified. The
certification process is very lengthy, time-consuming and expensive
so you really have to weigh that against the additional money you can
make as selling Certified Organic. And you must recertify each year.
I am going to begin certification process in the fall for next spring
for garden produce, eggs and meat. You really should get the rules
and regs package with an application and see what you can and can't
do. The list is very extensive and includes alot on Farm Management
Practices including barrier control and allowed and prohibited
herbicides, insecticides, fertilizers and mulches.You must keep
complete and accurate records including seed and plant sources. Good
luck and hope this helps! Let me know how the process goes with you
and I will do the same!

I am not new to gardening (40+ years), but this year I am
> > interested in getting my 1.5ish acre vegetable garden certified
> > organic. I have been using this garden since 1978 and other than
the
> > occasional commercial fertilizer have abstained from using
`nasty'
> > chemicals. Mostly cow & chicken manure, tree leaves, grass
clippings &
> > so forth. This year (for the first time) I am going to grow only
> > heirloom and/or open pollinated varieties.
> >

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Messages in this topic (8)
2a.

Re: Cold frame?

Posted by: "Dave Leland" dleland@chartermi.net   dleland_71

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:50 pm (PST)

Sounds like a GREAT plan. See if you scare up an old bed comforter or
several old blankets to cover the glass/coldframe at night. Keeps the heat
in. Then just take it off when the sun shines in. Also, see if you can tip
the coldframe towards the south-west. That will allow for maximum exposure
to 'ol Soul(sun).

PS: I'm Z5 too, and also got the itch. :)

Respectfully,

Dave Leland
DLELAND FARMS

Visit our family Website at: http://www.dleland.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of winna222
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 4:04 PM
To: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Organic_Gardening] Cold frame?

I'm in Zone 5 in MI and itching for spring (even tho' I'm sure that there's
still plenty of winter and snow left us yet). I'm thinking that maybe a
simple small cold frame might just be the ticket for me.

I've got some bales of straw left over from a Christmas display and I also
just happen to have some windows that my hubby scavenged for just such a
purpose.

I'm thinking that I could put some of the bales of straw near the house
foundation (maybe on the south side? Or else maybe on the west-facing
patio, where it's more protected from the cold at night?). I could use the
windows for a topper. Does this sound like I'm headed in the right
direction? Never tried a cold frame before so I'm looking for any tips or
ideas that might be helpful. Thanks!

Linda
(in the "middle of the mitten" in MI - Zone 5)

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Messages in this topic (5)
2b.

Re: Cold frame?

Posted by: "Jeff Strong" jeff_faithwalker@yahoo.com   jeff_faithwalker

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:51 pm (PST)

Yup you're on the right path. And just because of all that spring time ice age you folks have up there I would invest in a small grow mat. It is a vinyl coated heating pad for plants so if you are going to use pots just put the pots on the pad and it will keep there toes warm. On average they only consume about 15 watts and they will keep the temps inside above freezing at night. Also you should figure away to secure the window in place in case of high winds.
jeff

--- On Mon, 2/16/09, winna222 <rlludwick@journey.com> wrote:
From: winna222 <rlludwick@journey.com>
Subject: [Organic_Gardening] Cold frame?
To: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, February 16, 2009, 1:04 PM

I'm in Zone 5 in MI and itching for spring (even tho' I'm sure that

there's still plenty of winter and snow left us yet). I'm thinking

that maybe a simple small cold frame might just be the ticket for me.

I've got some bales of straw left over from a Christmas display and I

also just happen to have some windows that my hubby scavenged for just

such a purpose.

I'm thinking that I could put some of the bales of straw near the house

foundation (maybe on the south side? Or else maybe on the west-facing

patio, where it's more protected from the cold at night?). I could use

the windows for a topper. Does this sound like I'm headed in the right

direction? Never tried a cold frame before so I'm looking for any tips

or ideas that might be helpful. Thanks!

Linda

(in the "middle of the mitten" in MI - Zone 5)











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Messages in this topic (5)
2c.

Re: Cold frame?

Posted by: "phoenixblui" phoenixblui@yahoo.com   phoenixblui

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:52 pm (PST)

That is how I am doing my cold frame, but I am setting it in a southwest
location for a more full sun exposure.
--- In Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com, "winna222" <rlludwick@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm in Zone 5 in MI and itching for spring (even tho' I'm sure that
> there's still plenty of winter and snow left us yet). I'm thinking
> that maybe a simple small cold frame might just be the ticket for me.
>
> I've got some bales of straw left over from a Christmas display and I
> also just happen to have some windows that my hubby scavenged for just
> such a purpose.
>
> I'm thinking that I could put some of the bales of straw near the
house
> foundation (maybe on the south side? Or else maybe on the west-facing
> patio, where it's more protected from the cold at night?). I could
use
> the windows for a topper. Does this sound like I'm headed in the
right
> direction? Never tried a cold frame before so I'm looking for any
tips
> or ideas that might be helpful. Thanks!
>
> Linda
> (in the "middle of the mitten" in MI - Zone 5)
>

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Messages in this topic (5)
3a.

Re: New member intro - & my questions - apple trees

Posted by: "vlnewby" vlnewby@mac.com   vlnewby

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:51 pm (PST)

Welcome to the fold, Linda!

I will be following replies to your post because I plan to add fruit
trees to my routine when we return to Zone 7 in a few months. Until
then, I reside in Central New York where is grown a lot of apples and
where live a lot of deer. I have not personally sustained the damage
to plants that some have, but those deer will definitely eat all the
apples they can reach. I have seen them up on their hind legs going
for apples in the tree. That is a sight, let me tell you! I started to
say plant one for them and two for you, but they're likely to tell all
their friends and take all three.
So anyway, yes, do your homework and hopefully the listmembers will
have some advice and recommendations about fruit trees and deer
repellent methods.

Looking Forward,
Vicki in Cooperstown

--- In Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com, "winna222" <rlludwick@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello to Everyone!
>
...
> I've also decided that I'm going to plant some fruit trees this
year. ... Also: Since I'm new to growing fruit trees I need to know
whatever it
> is that I might need to know about growing them. ... Am I going to
need to protect
> my fruit trees from animal "fruit thieves"? What are some of the best
> ways to do this? I live in the country in Michigan and we have
> everything from rabbits, to deer, to birds etc. that would most likely
> enjoy sharing the bounty from my fruit trees.

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4a.

Re: (unknown)

Posted by: "david douglas" earthworks2@hotmail.com   earthworks111

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:51 pm (PST)

Hello Dan,

Here is a groupsite that I have found to be very helpful.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thebonsaiclub/

So far there hasn't been any junk spam on the site as there isn't on this organic gardening
group thankfully. Hooray for good moderators!

Live long & prosper,
Dave

----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Strong
To: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Organic_Gardening] (unknown)

Dan, I would check some of the local nurserys and see if they have a class on the bonsai and then maybe they could direct you as to the variety for there are about 20 of them.
jeff

--- On Sun, 2/15/09, Daniel Chetcuti <dancuti_06@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Daniel Chetcuti <dancuti_06@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Organic_Gardening] (unknown)
To: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, February 15, 2009, 4:08 PM

I'm o.k. with bonsia, I love it just don't have the time to dig into the topic more. I have one tree, plus three saplings. For my patience, I think I'm pretty good. So do I need to mango trees to produce fruit? And what style would best fit it? Maybe a broom, or straight trunk style; I'm still a total green horn with bonsia, so I'm not sure where to go.

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5a.

Re: onions looking horrible

Posted by: "Ken" kenrogers@comcast.net   kenrogers911

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:51 pm (PST)

Onions should be planted outside. Topping over is sometimes normal if
they have minimal light. If they are under plant grow lights, about 18
hours per day is necessary. If the tops are yellowing, they may hve
too much water. A rot can also be the cause as they do have diseases
that will 'strangle' the leaves at the soil and they they die. Its
similar to damping off.

--- In Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com, "quinton488"
<quinton488@...> wrote:
>
> I have started my onions in modules and little pots indoors (thanks
for the suggestions) and
> they sprouted well but they now look all horrible and they're
toppling over each other. Is there
> any reason for this "falling down" and how can I cure it?
>

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6a.

Re: question about pine nuts???   ( kind of off topic)

Posted by: "Ken" kenrogers@comcast.net   kenrogers911

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:51 pm (PST)

Very tedious to remove the 'nuts'. They are deeply imbedded in the
pine cones, and these have to be broken on each 'leaf' to get to the
core were the nuts are found. It may be that yours are not nut makers.
Places like Costco and BJ's sell the nuts fairly cheap as they are
removed by machine.

--- In Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com, "dizzimamma"
<dizzimamma@...> wrote:
>
> I live in central Arkansas and my property is covered in Georgia Pines.
> I was wondering if anyone knows if you can harvest pine nuts from
> these trees. I looked on line for a list of trees you can harvest from
> and did not find much info, but then again I am not much of a search
> person. Also if you can harvest nuts from these trees, how do you do
> it? and when?
>

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6b.

Re: question about pine nuts???   ( kind of off topic)

Posted by: "Jeff Strong" jeff_faithwalker@yahoo.com   jeff_faithwalker

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:51 pm (PST)

Dizzy,
  Yes you can eat them. But you need to roast them. Spread them one layer over a baking sheet with some sides at 400 degrees. The sheet will need some sides because you need to toss them lightly. Roast them for about 5 to 6 minutes and then salt to taste or you can mix them into your granola. Try googling Pine Nuts and you should find all kinds of links to recipes.
jeff
--- On Mon, 2/16/09, dizzimamma <dizzimamma@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: dizzimamma <dizzimamma@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Organic_Gardening] question about pine nuts??? ( kind of off topic)
To: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, February 16, 2009, 8:47 AM

I live in central Arkansas and my property is covered in Georgia Pines.

I was wondering if anyone knows if you can harvest pine nuts from

these trees. I looked on line for a list of trees you can harvest from

and did not find much info, but then again I am not much of a search

person. Also if you can harvest nuts from these trees, how do you do

it? and when?











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7a.

Re: New member intro - & my questions

Posted by: "Jeff Strong" jeff_faithwalker@yahoo.com   jeff_faithwalker

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:51 pm (PST)

Linda,
 The state extension service usually works with a particular University in the state it is operating in. Each of these Universities have Tester Trees which they graft various varieties. Now here in Oregon we have the Oregon State University, and twice a year, they put their Tester trees up for sale. So I would suggest that you check and see if they do that in your neck of the woods as well. Those trees are so pampered...........and you could get one tree with 4 or 5 varieties on it. Most are True Dwarfs. I have and apple tree that has Red Delicious, Granny Smiths, Golden Delicious, a Rome Giant and a Fuji. And it only set me back $35 and they bare fruit right away. Mine had a 3.25 caliper when I bought it 2 years ago its a wee bit bigger now. But hey 5 fruit baring trees for 35 bucks and they all are in one location. That's what I call square foot gardening!
jeff

--- On Mon, 2/16/09, winna222 <rlludwick@journey.com> wrote:
From: winna222 <rlludwick@journey.com>
Subject: [Organic_Gardening] New member intro - & my questions
To: Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, February 16, 2009, 12:49 PM

Hello to Everyone!

I've been an organic gardener in the past and over a period of time I

discovered that I was more interested in growing flowers, instead of

veggies. Go figure! lol Yes, it's sad - but true. However, now I've

done a complete reversal (due in part to the poor economy, and

escalating grocery prices) and I think that I want to get back into

organic veggie gardening. In fact, I've already been saving my kitchen

scraps to get my compost bin going. More about that later.

I've also decided that I'm going to plant some fruit trees this year.

I hope to find some fruit trees that have been grafted so that I can

get more different types of fruits from a smaller number of trees. I

plan to plant apple, pear, cherry and possibly one more type of fruit

tree this spring. Maybe one of those plum/apricot combo trees. ???

I'm wondering if you folks can steer me in the right direction for good

places to buy my fruit trees. I'm looking for the types of trees which

are grafted and will offer me several types of fruit from one tree.

The type where say 3-5 different types of apples grow on ONE tree.

Any help will be most appreciated. TIA!

Also: Since I'm new to growing fruit trees I need to know whatever it

is that I might need to know about growing them. Do I need more than

one tree of each kind to act as pollinators? What should I take into

consideration when selecting my fruit trees? I'm thinking that I'll

most likely want smaller trees. Maybe dwarfs? Or some other smallish

sized trees. Not really sure as I haven't started my search for fruit

trees as yet.

What do I need to know about spraying and caring for them? Dormant

oil? What is it - and what does it do? Am I going to need to protect

my fruit trees from animal "fruit thieves"? What are some of the best

ways to do this? I live in the country in Michigan and we have

everything from rabbits, to deer, to birds etc. that would most likely

enjoy sharing the bounty from my fruit trees. Will I need to put nets

over the trees to keep the wild animals away?

I've been saving my vegatable matter from my kitchen for a while now

and I need to get serious about starting my compost bin. Currently

it's all in plastic bags waiting in my garage for me. I need to get my

hands on some grass clippings, leaves, and some *soil* to get the thing

going properly. This is kinda hard to do in the winter in MI. Going

to give it my best shot though. I bought an animal proof garbage can

to use as a container for my compost. Will I need to poke some holes

in it so that it can "breathe"? Never tried this method before and

maybe I'm way off base with it. ??? Not sure. Thought that I could

possibly start off my compost bin (in a garbage can) right in my heated

garage to speed things up a bit and have it ready sooner. Good idea?

Or is this bad or wrong somehow? I've been away from organic vegetable

gardening for so long now that I can't remember half of what I once

knew. Bummer!

A little about me -

I'm a maried 52 year old woman. (Yikes! That age thing is sort of a

*shock* to me somehow. lol I keep wondering HOW... and WHEN... did THAT

happen??? lol) I live in the "middle of the mitten" - the lower

peninsula of MI is shaped like a "mitten". Zone 5, I believe. I am a

hobbyist soap and candle maker. Yep! I make lye soap! Mine is much

better than it was in Grandma's day, though - thanks to digital scales

to weigh ingredients more accurately, as well as online soap

calculators to determine how much lye is needed to turn X amount of

oils into soap. By the way, oil and water DO mix - they make SOAP.

I'm very happy to have found this group and thank you for letting me

join you all here. I hope to re-fresh my memory on organic gardening

techniques - as well as learn lots of new information from all of you.

I'm looking forward to all responses to my many questions. Thanks in

advance for your help. I appreciate it!

Take care,

Linda











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8a.

Re: inexpensive way to test soil for lead, arsenic, etc.

Posted by: "mike marduk" rockout93@yahoo.com   rockout93

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:52 pm (PST)

I think it contains a form of cyanide, not arsenic.  Arsenic is a naturally occurring element, created by nuclear fusion, usually in the form of a nova or super nova, not something a plant can manufacture (though some will absorb and concentrate it in their tissues more than others, as well as metabolize it into alternate, usually less-toxic forms). 

From Wikipedia (always with a BIG grain of salt of course):

"Cyanides are produced by certain bacteria, fungi, and algae and are found in a number of foods and plants. Cyanide is found, although in small amounts, in apple seeds, mangoes and bitter almonds."

okay, I'm done nerding out.  Your post is otherwise spot on; if you're going to test for lead and other toxins, you may as well test for nutrient deficiencies.  It may cost more in total, but the cost per test is likely to be less.  Besides, just like people, plants that are lacking in nutrients are more likely to absorb poisons.  For example, people who are deficient in iron will absorb more poisonous heavy metals; people who have sufficient iron in their diet will pass more of the toxins from their system without absorbing them.  Find out what our plants need, and they'll leave more of the bad stuff in the soil (and there is always SOME bad stuff).

Posted by: "Ken"
kenrogers@comcast.net
 

kenrogers911



Mon Feb 16, 2009 10:03 pm (PST) >Cost effective is not really applicable here, unless you can find a

>lab that can do those tests cheaply, which I have never seen. I

>suppose it would be better to get a full soil test done for the things

>you DO need in your soil, and ask if the lead and such toxins can be

>added on as well. If you currently grow apple trees, arsenic is found

>naturally in the seeds of apples.

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9.

Two Questions

Posted by: "Sy" retiredprof55@comcast.net   retiredprof55

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:52 pm (PST)

We are in the process of selling our house that contains a large
(24'x20') raised bed (Trex-like timbers) organic vegetable, herb and
flower garden. We would love to see the house go to someone who would
enjoy the organic garden and are wondering if anyone knows whether
there are any internet lists or clubs geared towards organic gardening
that one could let people know about the house. We are also wondering
if anyone has listed a house with a large organic garden whether the
garden helped sell the house or was a deterrent. Thank you in advance.

Sy and Anita Brandon
Wrightsville, PA

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10.

Introducing me to the group aka Karen

Posted by: "spywareexpert" begorggard@gmail.com   spywareexpert

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:52 pm (PST)

I live in Florida, the sunshine state, which is normally warm and
sunny most of the time but this year it's rather cold and not sunny.
I guess we can't always have great weather. I have two gardens, both
organic, one in front and one in back. I'm kind of testing different
ways a gardening here in the sunny state.

I put in square foot garden last year however, it didn't do very well
due to the heat. So I have to use a different type of water system
for it. Right now it has a rain barrel and a soaker hose but it
didn't keep it watered enough.

The garden out back is a normal in the ground garden and it always
grows well.

If you have any ideas for the front garden that would be great. I
thought about using PVC pipe to keep it watered. As it is right now
I have to water it twice a day for anything to grow good. Although,
my seedlings took a dive with the frost we actual had, so they're
going to need to be planted again. It's just about time to start the
first wave a gardening here. I look forward to any suggestion on the
front garden.

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11a.

Re: Cold frame and bakers creek seeds

Posted by: "sarakaycow" sarakaycow@hotmail.com   sarakaycow

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:52 pm (PST)

Hi linda,
I wish I had space and sun for a cold frame. I have looked into it and
it seems like you are on the right track. I found a book by Storey
publications that had ideas for cold frames and one of them was to use
an old window for the top of it. I can't find it right now, but you can
see it at

http://www.storey.com/book_detail.php?
isbn=9780882662138&cat=Country%20Wisdom%20BulletinGardening&p=0

If you are ever near Kalamazoo,MI, I have a friend who lives just north
of kazoo whose husband built her a cold frame. I am sure you could go
and see it. She used her's mostly for starting seeds in last year. I
know she wanted to grow greens, but I don't think it happened this year.

Someone else wrote, wondering about Baker Creek seeds. I have
purchased ffrom them last year and this year with no problems. They
did mess up my order last year (gave me kohlrabi seeds instead of
leeks, but they fixed the problem and I grew kolrabi for the first
time!) I grow all heirloom veggies and can't wait for spring!

I also purchased from Seeds of Change...their prices were a little more
than others, so I didn't buy lots, but at the checkout all the seeds
that were $3.79 ended up being on sale for $2 a packet.

Sara in SW MI

--- In Organic_Gardening@yahoogroups.com, "winna222" <rlludwick@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm in Zone 5 in MI and itching for spring (even tho' I'm sure that
> there's still plenty of winter and snow left us yet). I'm thinking
> that maybe a simple small cold frame might just be the ticket for me.
>
> I've got some bales of straw left over from a Christmas display and I
> also just happen to have some windows that my hubby scavenged for
>

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